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The training stick is one of the most useful tools that we own, but it must
be used correctly. It's an extension of your hand. We use it to
stay out of trouble when initiating contact with a new horse. The extra
few feet can keep you out of trouble when you first touch a horse that may have
some fear of touch to certain parts of the body. When used with a 2 foot
piece of 1/4" rope, the stick is extremely useful for touching the legs
and feet of a young colt. The
training stick is a four foot long fiberglass rod that has a golf club grip
on one end and a rope loop on the other end. We like this type of training stick
because it does not flex like a longe whip and is much longer.
Purchse stick from our accesories page.
We tie a plastic
grocery bag or a rope to the leather tab on the end of the training stick to
help with some of our training. We use the training stick primarily for these
purposes:
- We use it to
initiate contact with a new horse. You can stay out of harms way and use the
stick as an extension of your body to touch the horse all over. Short leather
straps on the end are great as a tool to feel the horse all over or just using
the rope loop on the tip is also great for this purpose.
- When round
penning, as an extension of our body to accentuate power and to keep the horse
moving.To
yield our horses from the ground.
- While riding,
to yield other horses from on top.
Introduce the
stick to the horse
Use
the approach/retreat method of introducing the stick to the horse. You want
to be able to touch the horse all over with the stick. Attach the rope halter
and lead rope to the horse. We start without the plastic grocery bag attached.
Offer the stick to the horse, let them see and smell it. You may even
lay the stick on the ground and let the horse look at it. While standing about
five feet off the left shoulder, we move the stick in an up/down motion. Make
sure that you dont direct the motion of the stick at the horse. The horse
may move away from the energy of the stick. Thats OK, let the horse drift
but keep the motion of the stick going. Dont allow the horse to back or
go forward. If they are going to get out of work we ALWAYS make them move laterally.
Lateral movement is harder for the horse and they will quickly search for a
way out, or a solution that will get you to stop. Use this to your advantage.
When the horse stops moving, reward this. This is the horses way of telling
you that they are comfortable with the movement. Practice doing this on both
sides of the horse.
Some horses will
react dramatically with the introduction of the stick. The "outta
here" response can get pretty big. I have seen horses jump straight
up in the air, kick out at the stick with all four feet, and some dangerous
striking out behavior. Be extremely cautious when you introduce this to
the horse.
Now you can touch
the horse with the stick. Stand about five feet off th e
left shoulder, you want to be out of the danger zone in case the horse strikes
or kicks out at the stick. Move the stick slowly over to touch just below the
shoulder of the horse. Its very important not to move too fast with the
stick. The horse will probably move or drift away from the stick. Again, this
is OK. Keep with the horse, dont allow him to back or go forward. Remember,
if they are going to get out of work we ALWAYS make them move laterally. When
the horse stops moving, reward this. Work towards being able to touch the horse
with the stick and hold the end against the body part you are after until they
are desensitized enough to stand quietly. Then move on to another part of the
horse.
Ideally, you want
to be able to touch your horse anywhere on their body with the training stick.
But, there are some extra sensitive places on the horse that require some caution
and extra time before you should go after them. The safest places to start
are the shoulder and sides of the horse. The following potential trouble
spots are places on the horse to be aware of that may cause a bigger than expected
reaction from the training stick.
Potential
Trouble Spots:
Don't
cross the withers; NEVER and I do mean never introduce the flag and
stick to the "off" side of the horse by moving it over the neck
or withers. As you know, horses see things differently than we do.
Just because you introduced an object or excercise to the horse on the left
side, doesn't mean that it carries over to the right side of the horse.
This is especially true of the flag. If the horse sees the flag coming
over the wither out of the corner of their eye and they are startled -- chances
are the horse is going to move away from the pressure. Away from the
pressure is right where you are standing.
Don't go above
the withers towards the head. This is a tough spot too.
The flank or
stifle area. Your heading into a sensitive area that the horse will
try to protect. Don't go here until the horse let's you know he's ready.
Many horses
don't like to be touched on the coronet band. This is a very sensitive
spot on the foot.
Near the genital
areas. Enough said!
We eventually
tackle these areas, we just don't start there. Just because the horse finds
something uncomfortable doesn't mean that you shouldn't do it. On the
contrary, this shows you where you need to concentrate your efforts. The
important thing to remember is that there's a natural progression in how you
introduce things to the horse. If you're the type of person who skips
to the end of a book because you find the middle boring, you're probably not
going to have the patience to work out all of the bugs before you tackle some
of these problem spots.
If youve
read any of our training material, you realize that there is no time limit on
how long this takes. We have gone from being able to touch a horse anywhere
in 10 minutes to a horse that took two weeks to touch with the bag anywhere
on their body -- that's our goal.
EXTRA
CREDIT: Touch the feet, be careful you are definitely going
into the horses comfort zone when you start touching their feet with a
foreign object. Your objective should be to touch the horse anywhere on their
body (belly, ears, rear, chest, etc.) with the stick while the horse stands
quietly. You should be able to do this from both sides of the horse.
Add a
rope to the stick
A piece of rope
adds another useful extension to the training stick. We add an 18-24 inch
piece of 1/4" rope to the end of our stick. We recommend that people
use the lead rope to desesensitize the horse to the feel of rope on their body.
The training stick works very well for this too. It may even be easier
for some people because you don't have to have good rope handling skills and
you can operate further away from the horse.
Be careful not
to slap or snap the rope at the horse -- it's not a whip! You want to
lay the rope on the horses back, around the legs, and feet. Use this the
same way that you would want someone to touch you with a rope.
Add the bag
to the stick
The first thing
we do is tear the bottom out of the plastic bag. This keeps it from blowing
up like a balloon when you move it. When the horse can stand quietly,
we add the bag to the end of the stick. Again, we work towards being able to
touch the horse all over with the plastic bag attached. This is a completely
new thing to the horse, even though they may have been great with the stick
without the bag. Do the exercises above with the plastic bag on the stick.
Ordering
Information
Fiberglass training
stick; four feet long, black or white color with rubber golf grip
and decorative braided leather knot on top, rope tip for use with touch excercises
with the horse and attaching plastic bag and rope.
Purchase
stick from out accessories page.
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